We were traveling through New Mexico this past week on my way from Colorado to Arizona. We had no real plans to do anything but maximize our speed to reduce the driving time, but while heading through Deming, New Mexico we saw a sign for St. Clair Vineyards. So we stopped.

I wasn’t expecting much from a New Mexico winery, to be honest. However, this was a very pleasant visit and certainly interesting. Entering the tasting room, we were surprised to find five other people at the tasting bar already. I guess I expected the place to be empty. Sitting down, we were more surprised to find a list of 29 different wines on their menu! These included standards such as Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah but also wines such as Nebbiolo, Muscat, a something I have never heard of called White Merlot. (It’s right next to the White Zin on their menu, so perhaps similar.)

By the time we sat down, the other patrons had left and we had the very woman behind the tasting bar all to ourselves. My first question: do you grow all these grapes locally? Answer: unclear. The winery buys truckloads or trainloads of grape juice and what exactly is local and what purchased was not clear. Question: Why do you have both a syrah and shiraz on the menu? Answer: They are the same grape, just produced differently. (Not correct.) Question: I thought they were the same grape, just that Shiraz is the name the Australians used for the Syrah grape? (Correct.) Answer: Someone in here once told me Shiraz came from the Jews. Question: The Jews? Do you mean from Israel? Answer: Yes. (Correct answer is the term Shiraz comes from the ancient Persian city of Shiraz, which is where the grape was thought to have originally come from.)

Do you see what I mean? Very entertaining!

The wine itself was actually okay and we ended up purchasing a bottle of Chardonnay. The most interesting thing about the wine, to me, was that 1) their high-quality wines were not available for tasting and 2) they had low-quality bulk wine on sale for $2.50 a bottle or $16.66 for five liters. Just bring your own jug.

All in all, a pleasant experience and well worth 30 minutes. Make sure to drop by the next time you drive on I-10 between Las Cruces and Tucson.

In the meantime, we wanted to alert you to a new festival called Zintopia that is taking place on September 19th in one of our favorite wine regions, the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County. This one-day festival takes place all in one central park (rather than at wineries) and includes wine, food, music, and an artisan market.

What’s more, our partners at the Winegrowers of Dry Creek Valley organization have given us a special code to share with you that will get you 30% off the $75 admission price. Just put “Zin” in the code box on the ticket order form and tell the folks in California that Travels With Wine sent you.

But it is another wine tourism session that I want to write about here because it combines both wine tourism and blogging / social media – which is what the Travels With Wine platform is all about.  On Saturday, October 31st at the European Wine Bloggers Conference in Lisbon, Portugal wine bloggers from across Europe will meet to discuss “wine tourism and social media”.

You might not know there even is such a thing as a Wine Bloggers Conference. Well, there are actually two: one in North America and one in Europe.  The European ones are produced by our fellow wine bloggers at Catavino and this coming October 30 – November 1 will be the second annual offering.

The interesting thing about this session is the intersection of wine tourism – a huge and growing part of the tourism world – and social media, which is one of the newest and hottest form of marketing. I can’t predict what the topic will cover but certainly look forward to hearing the results!

I love Rioja.  It is an amazing place with fantastic bicycling routes, beautiful scenery, excellent hotels,  good food, and nice people.  It is really a top wine tourism destination and yet I usually find it practically empty of wine tourists.

One reason for this lack of visitors compared to other regions, is the established system of wine tourism. Unlike many US wineries, almost no Rioja wineries are open for visitors on a regular basis. Instead, wineries will open for pre-scheduled groups or will have designated times for tours.  As an American, I hate that type of schedule. For one thing, if I am vacationing in Rioja the last thing I want to do is pre-schedule my day. For another, I don’t want to sit (or walk) through a tour every time I want to visit a winery.

Of course, I can see the Spaniards’ point. They undoubtedly don’t want to just pour wine but want to give each visitor a flavor of the winery itself.  Still, if a visitor is ready to pay three Euro for a tasting and might buy a bottle of wine afterward, it seems as if wineries in Rioja might consider opening up for tastings on a drop-in basis.

Having said all of that, on our bike tour we were a private group and were able to schedule arranged tours and/or tastings.  One of these tours stood out as the single best winery tour I have ever taken and an example of how wine tourism in Rioja can work well.

Bodegas López de Heredia Viña Tondonia is a 131 year old winery situated on the outskirts of Haro, the main wine town in Rioja.  It is the oldest bodega (winery) in Haro, one of the three oldest in Rioja, and still family owned.  And it is this age and family connection that made for such a unique tour.

Our guide was Maria Jose, who I believe is the great granddaughter of the founder. Maria Jose was excellent and filled with passion about her subject. Viña Tondonia has a vast cellar system and the winery prides itself on not selling wines before they are ready to be sold.  It was absolutely amazing to see the pencillin-covered walls and bottles in the many cellar rooms, bottles that had not been touched in some cases for over 50 years.

If you go to the winery’s website, you’ll see an example of how wine tourism in Rioja can actually work. They have an “arrange a visit” form where you can write (in English if you want) when you want to visit, who you are, and what your specific interests are. The winery will then (hopefully) respond to help arrange your tour.  If all works as planned, you’ll get a private tour of one of the most unique wineries in the world, rather than just being another visitor to a winery tasting room.

So while winery tasting rooms definitely have a role to play in wine tourism, the private touch you get in Rioja can be quite amazing.

This week I had the opportunity to visit the heart of the Ohio wine industry, located in Northeast Ohio. I live out west and must admit I couldn’t have placed any Ohio cities on a map so I’ll fill in my fellow Westerners.  Columbus is in the middle of the state, Cincinnati and Dayton are in the lower left, Toledo is at the top left, and Cleveland is at the top right on the shores of Lake Erie.

The Northeast Ohio wine country runs east from Cleveland along Lake Erie towards the Pennsylvania border. What I especially liked about the area was that it had the makings of a perfect short getaway weekend.

The center of attention really goes to the small town of Geneva-on-the-Lake. Located only an hour and a quarter from Cleveland Airport, it is easy to reach in addition to being cute.  There are only half a dozen motels and B&Bs in the area but this situation is vastly improved by the Lodge at Geneva On-the-Lake, a beautiful and well-maintained hotel located right on Lake Erie and next to Geneva State Park. The food at the Lodge is excellent and I took an afternoon jog from the hotel through the trails in the State Park next door.

Once you are situated, it is time to try some of the local wine. The Ohio Wine Producers Association lists 19 wineries that are part of the Lake Erie Vines and Wines Trail.  Now, I only visited one winery in the area since I was at a conference so I won’t give you recommendations.  You can get a map from your hotel and explore on your own.

I did, however, have a chance to try a number of Ohio wines at the wine conference I attended and can say there are certainly good ones.  I have a few tips for you.

First, Ohio wines are not necessarily going to taste like the wines you normally drink, especially if you are used to drinking heavy reds.  Consider this an opportunity to expand your palate.  Oregon Pinot Noirs are not heavy reds but they are exceedingly popular in part, I think, because people learned to develop a more sophisticated palate that could appreciate them.  The same could be true of Ohio Wines and you should consider this an opportunity to educate your palate.

Secondly, not all the wines made in Ohio are made from Ohio grapes.  If you are tasting a robust red wine, take a look at the bottle and see if it says California or a grape-growing region in that state such as Lodi.  It’s not cheating to buy wine in bulk from California, remix it, and sell it as your own but I think it’s important for consumers to know what they are drinking.  Grapes commonly grown locally include “cold climate” varietals such as Chardonnay, Riesling, and the local red Chambourcin but the list of local varietals is long.

In all, the Northeast Ohio wine region makes an excellent weekend escape to wine country! (Map courtesy of my friends at the Ohio Wine Producers Association.)

We had the opportunity to visit Door County for a brief 3 day weekend, primarily to attend Autumnfest in Baileys Harbor, one of several picturesque towns dotting the landscape here.  With a little pre planning and research, we learned that wineries flourish here.  In fact, Door County is perched on the 45th Parallel North, the same parallel as Tuscany and Bordeaux, both great European wine producing areas.  The climate is somewhat moderated by the close proximity to Lake Michigan, and even though winters are cold, they are somewhat less harsh than other parts of Wisconsin.

Door County has long been known as a premier four season destination.  Back in the 1950’s, my grandfather camped and fished near one of Door County’s small towns, Fish Creek.  The rural element is still prevalent here, with farmers markets and roadside produce stands the norm rather than the exception.  And while tourism is big business in Door County, it hasn’t overstepped its bounds.  The pace is relaxed, the scenery abundant, and pleasant discoveries are always just around the bend.

It’s easy to navigate Door County.  There are two main state highways, Route 57 which traces the Lake Michigan side of the peninsula, and Route 42 which hugs the bay side.  Door County itself is about 60 miles in length, and depending upon traffic it’s about an hour from our starting point, Sturgeon Bay, to Gills Rock, the tip of the peninsula and gateway to Washington Island.

Sturgeon Bay and Two Door County Wineries

After reaching Door County mid morning, it was a short drive to the largest city on the peninsula, Sturgeon Bay, and the Red Oak Vineyard.  You’ll find Red Oak Vineyard in the midst of downtown Sturgeon Bay, appropriately in Winery Square.  Red Oak features Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Riesling, Chardonnay, and several other styles to tempt you. Most of the wines noted above are made from grapes from California or Washington and then hand crafted on site.

We wanted a taste of Door County on this visit, so we decided to focus on Red Oak’s wines made with local fruit.  We were steered to the Cherry Beaujolais, which reminded us of a really rich, traditional beaujolais, except with a bit more fruit flavor.  Exceptionally smooth and aromatic, this wine and Red Oak’s Ruby Cherry were prime examples of successfully using fruit other than grapes to produce a stellar wine.  Stack this one up with your favorite beaujolais – we think you’ll be impressed.

Also, if it’s available, be sure to try Captain Nick’s Port.  This wonderfully smooth port has a palate of vanilla, nutmeg, and a bit of toffee in our estimation.  One of the better ports we’ve had recently, add it to your collection if you visit.

Just a few short miles up Route 42 from Sturgeon Bay is Door Peninsula Winery, the oldest and largest winery in Door County.   An all natural fruit winery, Door Peninsula Winery produces over 50 types of wine, depending upon the year and season. Two of the newest offerings, and both made with Door County grapes, are Marechel Foch and LaCrosse.

Marechel Foch is a red wine made from cold climate French hybrid grapes.  Bold and slightly spicy, it stands up well to any meat or pork dish.  The LaCrosse, a white wine, is an easy sipper with a pleasant citrus aroma and slight grapefruit tang at the finish.

You can also taste and buy all sorts of interesting specialty fruit wines at Door Peninsula.  We took home a bottle of Blackberry Merlot and loved it.  Best of all was Peninsula White, a blend of syval blanc and apple wine that gives the feel and flavor of autumn in the Midwest.

Egg Harbor, Fish Creek, and Lautenbach Orchard and Winery

Egg Harbor is located in the center of Door County and is well known for its numerous shopping options, including many unique and one of a kind shops. There are over 100 shops in town, making Egg Harbor a great place to stroll and explore.  A prime destination are the Liberty Square Shops, where you’ll find specialty boutiques and galleries.

Downtown Egg Harbor is a delight.  Here you’ll find restaurants in restored historic buildings right alongside small parks brimming with colorful flowers.  Egg Harbor in particular is a walking community, so park the car and set off on foot.

In Fish Creek, a few miles north of Egg Harbor, you’ll find a thriving artists community and access to some of the finest views in Door County.  Fish Creek boasts a picturesque harbor and city beach, both easily accessible from town.  Restaurants and shops beckon, and bed and breakfasts blend seamlessly into the residential and business area.  Of note, Fish Creek was recently voted the #1 Small Town Getaway by Midwest Living Magazine.

Just 1/2 mile south of Fish Creek is Lautenbach’s Orchard Country Winery, a perfect late afternoon stop for a bit of wine tasting.  You can pick your own fruit here at this family orchard and winery, or take a 30 minute narrated tour through the orchard and vineyard.

We really enjoyed the wines here.  First on our list was Autumn Harvest, a blend of Wisconsin cranberries and Door County apples. The mix of cranberry and apple made for a taste tingling balance between sweet and tart.  Another wine to savor is Audrey Grace Red, a light red wine made with grapes from the Lautenbach vineyard.  This wine is made from red grapes of the Foch and Frontenac varietal. It’s light in tannins, with a just hint of cherry for a soft, slightly dry finish.  Also try Celebrate, a blended wine made with white grapes, apples, and Door County cherries.  It’s a fun wine that’s light and fruity, with just a kiss of sweetness.

Ephraim and Two Door County Wineries

The village of Ephraim is another picturesque community to explore.  Named Door County’s Most Scenic Village, Ephraim boasts a picture book harbor and waterfront beaches and parks.  The quaint business area is adjacent, so plan for a few hours here to take everything in.  Don’t miss the City Farmer, a home accent and garden accessory store, and Pet Expressions, a gourmet gift store for your best friend.

And if it’s sweets you crave, an absolute must stop is Wilson’s Ice Cream, open since 1906.  Try a house brewed root beer on tap, sumptous banana spilt, or an extra thick cherry milkshake.  Wilson’s is right downtown, directly across from the harbor.

Now, on to our last two Door County Wineries.  First was Simon Creek Winery, home of the largest vineyard in Wisconsin and one of the most modern winery operations in the state.  The rural location, actually adjacent to a quiet pond, sits exactly on the 45th Parallel.  Sunday afternoons bring live music, and on this particular day we enjoyed the sounds of guitarist/singer Mickey Grasso.

We recommend several offerings from Simon Creek.  The first actually isn’t a wine, but rather Peninsula Gold, a cream sherry that pairs very well with cheese.  An excellent wine is Untouchable Red, an award winner, in the cabernet style.  It has a deep red color and is pleasatly off dry.  Also try the Simon Creek Gewurtztraminer,  with just a hint of sweetness, balanced with the good spicy characteristics of this style.

The setting here is as peaceful as it gets, absolutely perfect for a Sunday afternoon.  Don’t miss Simon Creek when you’re in Door County.  You’re welcome to enjoy a picnic here as well.

Our final winery visit for this trip is Stone’s Throw Winery, located in an 80 year old stone barn at the exact center of Door County peninsula.  Stone’s Throw offers a full range of wines from both California grapes and grapes from their on site vineyard.

We especially liked Field Blend White, a great value at $10.  This wine is a complex yet very drinkable white wine blend that owns the characteristics of a Riesling.  The counterpart, Field Blend Red, also impresses.

The winery is something of a celebrity as it were, having been featured on The Food Network not only for its wineries, but also their gourmet line of pasta sauces and olive oils, all created from old family recipes.

Note: All photos courtesy of Simon Creek Winery.  Author Jim Hofman travels and writes about wine. For more stories, see Wine Trails USA.

On Friday, we visited wineries in the Salem area. St. Innocent Winery was our first stop. St. Innocent is located on and sources their estate fruit from Zenith Vineyard. Our next stop was at Eola Hills Wine Cellars. Eola Hills makes some good wines at very reasonable prices. Our favorite Eola Hills wine was actually a Sangiovese produced with fruit from Lodi, California.

We had a busy day on Saturday in which we visited wineries located in the northern part of the Willamette Valley. Belle Pente Vineyard & Winery (pronounced “bell-pont”) is owned and operated by Jill and Brian O’Donnell who moved from San Jose, California, to Oregon in 1992. Their current annual production level is 4,000 to 5,000 cases. In terms of quality, Elk Cove Vineyards was our favorite winery on this trip. Founded in 1974, Elk Cove currently produces about 40,000 cases per year. We absolutely loved their 2005 Elk Cove Pinot Noir—Roosevelt.

Argyle Winery is located in an old restored home in Dundee. Argyle is one of the most well-respected wineries in Oregon and one of our favorites as well. Their 1997 Argyle Extended Tirage Brut recently won our Wine Peeps’ Sparkling Wine tasting dinner. Of all the Pinot Noirs that we tasted on this trip, the 2006 Argyle Reserve Pinot Noir represents the highest quality and most bang-for-your-buck.

Our final stop took us to Chehalem Winery. They were well-organized and had a friendly tasting staff. Our favorite of their wines was the 2007 Chehalem Reserve Dry Riesling.

All told, I’m really glad that we visited the Willamette Valley again. I have a much better perception of them now than I did from our previous visit. In addition to finally finding a few Pinots that I like and meeting some very nice people, we had fabulous weather and were able to enjoy the beautiful Oregon countryside.

For a list of additional wineries in the area, visit Willamette Valley Wineries Association.

If You Go:

If you are flying, Portland is the closest major airport. If you are driving, the Willamette Valley is located south and east of Portland. All of the Willamette Valley wineries are within about an hour’s drive of Portland.

Lodging:
To be centrally located within the Willamette Valley, you will probably want to stay in either Newburg or Dundee. There are a number of options including hotels, motels, and Bed & Breakfasts.

Wineries and tasting rooms to visit:
St. Innocent Winery, 5657 Zena Road NW, Salem, OR 97304, 503-378-1526, open weekends 11am-4pm (November-April) and open Tues-Sun 11am-4pm (May-October). For directions, click here.
Eola Hills Wine Cellars, 501 South Pacific Highway 99W, Rickreall, OR 97371, 503-623-2405, open daily 10am-5pm, No tasting fee. For directions, click here.
Belle Pente Vineyard & Winery, 12470 NE Rowland Road, Carlton, OR 97111, 503-852-9500, only open Memorial Day and Thanksgiving weekends and by appointment. For directions, click here.
Elk Cove Vineyards, 27751 NW Olson Road, Gaston, OR 97119, 503-985-7760, open daily 10am-5pm, $5 tasting fee. For directions, click here.
Argyle Winery, 691 Highway 99W, Dundee, OR 97115, 503-538-8520 x233, open daily 11am-5pm. For directions, click here.
Chehalem Winery, 31190 NE Veritas Lane, Newberg, OR 97132, 503-538-4700, open by appointment only, $10 tasting fee. For directions, click here.
Chehalem Tasting Room (downtown Newburg tasting room for Chehalem Winery), 106 Center Street, Newberg, OR 97132, 503-538-9396, open Thurs-Mon 11am-5pm, $5-$10 tasting fee depending on which tasting you choose (refundable with purchase). For directions, click here.

Other things to do in the area:
There are many things to do in the greater Portland area including shopping, sightseeing, and outdoor activities. The Oregon Coast is beautiful and makes a great getaway, so consider adding a couple days onto the end of your wine tasting trip to relax.

Wine and grape growing have long been a part of New York State.  New York is consistently in the top 10 states in terms of grape growing and wine production, and boasts well over 100 wineries.  Wine trails abound here, from Long Island to the beautiful Finger Lakes, and many more.  Most of the state’s climate and topography are ideally suited to grape growing, and wine production has been thriving since the 1800’s.

Western New York is an especially ideal area for wine lovers, as the proximity to two Great Lakes creates a perfect microclimate for wine grapes.  The Niagara Wine Trail, just minutes from Niagara Falls and only 1/2 hour from Buffalo, boasts 12 wineries that offer a welcoming introduction to New York wine.

Niagara Wine Trail

The Niagara Wine Trail is very convenient to both Buffalo and Niagara Falls.  From downtown Buffalo, it’s less than 1/2 hour to the main cluster of wineries, situated just west of the small village of Lockport, NY.  Just take Route 425 north from Buffalo and follow the winery signs.

There are 12 wineries on the trail, 11 of which are right in Niagara County. Even if you don’t have the opportunity to visit all 12, take the time to enjoy the pleasant short drive from Buffalo or Niagara Falls to see one or two.  This is agriculture country, a haven for fruit growing.  There’s a sense of serenity here, with rolling breezes off Lake Ontario just a few miles north.

The wineries here celebrate the passion of winemaking, and you’ll be in luck if the wine trail is hosting an event while you visit. You’ll find everything from Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, Pinot Noirs, Rieslings, dessert wines, and fruit wines.  Of particular note, almost all the wineries use grapes and fruit from the immediate area.

The Wineries

Let’s get to know each of the 12 wineries …

• Vizcarra Vineyards:  This is a great family destination, with two outdoor patios with vineyard and sunset views, and U-Pick opportunities from onsite orchards.  The vineyard itself is part of Becker Farms, a well known attraction in this area. There’s a full selection of reds, whites, and specialty fruit wines here.  We enjoyed the crisp Rusty’s Riesling and the sweet Barreled Over Niagara, made from the Niagara grape common in the region.
• Eveningside Vineyards:  Eveningside is a family farm winery (complete with gorgeous red barn!) specializing in Chardonnays, Rieslings, and Cabernet Franc.  We particularly recommend the 2007 Riesling, an excellent example of the style, and the Crofton Blush, a semi sweet offering that’s ideal for summer sipping.
• Honeymoon Trail Winery:  Having the perfect name for a winery in the Niagara Falls area, Honeymoon Trail offers a beautiful setting to sample their wines.  Try the rich spicy Cabernet Franc and the White Lace, a blend of Riesling and Cayuga White.  We also took home two bottles of Just Peachy, a crisp and fruity wine made with New York grown peaches.
• Warm Lake Estate:  Pinot Noir is the name of the game at Warm Lake Estate.  Wine Spectator consistently praises the Pinot Noir, rating it the best of its kind in New York.  Their expansive vineyard, hosting exclusively Pinot Noir grapes, is viewable from the outside deck.
• Arrowhead Spring Vineyards:  This alluring family farm winery has a wide array of grapes in its vineyard, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, and Chardonnay, all of which do well in the Niagara region.  The result is some of the more spectacular wine we enjoyed on this trip. We loved the smooth, buttery 2006 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay in particular.
• Niagara Landing Wine Cellars:  One of the older wineries in the region, Niagara Landing offers over two dozen wine selections along with an inviting gift shop with artwork from local artists. Go for the House White, a fruity blend, and the red Baco Noir, one of the most complex berry and spice reds we’ve had.  Also of note, we found the prices here to be a great bargain.
• Spring Lake Winery:  The vineyard at Spring Lake Winery is part of the peaceful 78 acre site, complete with an 8 acre lake and numerous walking paths.  We enjoyed an invigorating 2 mile hike through the property before ending at the Tuscan style tasting room, where we dove in and tried the Gewurztraminer, with its bouquet of apricot and banana.  If you visit, be sure to ask about their Wine Train excursions, a cooperative effort between the winery and a local railroad museum.
• Chiappone Wine Cellars:  Located on a beautiful farm setting near the small town of Newfane, Chiappone Wine Cellars has a long tradition of winemaking over three generations.  We thought the whites were the stars here, in particular the Morning Star, a dry but fruity Riesling that has won numerous wine awards.
• Schulze Vineyards and Winery:  Just a stone’s throw from the shores of Lake Ontario, Schulze Vineyards and Winery is situated on 120 acres of beautiful farm land.  When you visit here, you’ll literally experience the fresh aroma of grapes and Lake Ontario at the same time. In their vineyard, current plantings include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Catawba, Vidal, Niagara, and Riesling.
• Freedom Run Winery:  Freedom Run Winery is family owned and operated, with fragrant orchards surrounding the new tasting room.  When we visited, 11 wines were available.  We thought the Manning Manor Blanc was superb, a blend of Cayuga White and Vidal Blanc, making for a pleasant and mildly sweet taste.  Before you leave, be sure to see the various works of glass and pottery art, handmade by one of Freedom Run’s owners and available for purchase via their website.
• Leonard Oakes Estate Winery: This brand new winery is the only Niagara Wine Trail member outside of Niagara County, as it’s just over the Orleans County line, just 5 minutes from Vizcarra Vineyards.  Leonard Oakes Estate wines are all produced from grapes grown on site, and are fun and easy to drink.  Try the wonderfully complex Frontenac, with notes of dark fruit like blackberry and plum.
• The Winery at Marjim Manor:  Finally, we’d like to take you to the shores of Lake Ontario to the gorgeous grounds and setting of The Winery at Marjim Manor.  The winery’s location has an interesting history, serving at various times as a grainery, a home, and even a convent.  Some even say the place is haunted! The wines, though, are very upfront and friendly.  Fruit wines rule the day here, all produced from the owner’s large orchard.  And this is truly a spectacular location to taste wine and linger, with a commanding view of Lake Ontario.  Be sure to take your time here … the setting and the grounds are stunning.

Planning Your Visit

We divided these winery visits into a three day period, visiting a maximum of four per day.  The best part about this wine trail is the close proximity of the wineries … not only are they an easy drive from one another, but they’re very close to Buffalo as well.  If you are flying to the area, the Buffalo Niagara International Airport has non-stop flights from 18 cities. In Buffalo, for lodging try the top-rated Mansion on Delaware Avenue, the Beau Fleuve B&B Inn, or one of dozens of decent chain hotels in the area.

Author Jim Hofman travels the country and writes frequently for his website, Wine Trails USA. Photos courtesy of Arrowhead Spring Vineyards.

As part of a recent eastern state swing, we discovered abundant clusters of wineries and wine trails all along the southern and eastern boundary of Lake Erie, from Ohio to New York.  Along the way, a small area of Pennsylvania awaits, offering the wine traveler a chance to visit some of the Keystone State’s most prominent wineries.  This area is part of the Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine Trail, one of 11 wine trails encompassing Pennsylvania wineries.

Like most states in this general geographic area, Pennsylvania has a long history of grape growing and wine making.  At present, the state ranks fourth nationally in grape growing and eighth for overall wine production.  As you might expect, there are plenty of Pennsylvania wineries to explore, with the state’s varied topography offering many distinct types of grapes and wines.

Wineries of the Chautauqua Wine Trail:  Day One

Everywhere we went in Erie, we were greeted with a smile.  Take the time to visit this friendly city and enjoy all the area has to offer. From Erie, it’s a short 15 mile drive east to the beautiful Victorian themed town of North East, home to 5 wineries on the Pennsylvania portion of the trail.

As you enter North East, you’ll notice and even catch the fragrance of thousands upon thousands of grape vines.  Agriculture and grape growing are a source of community pride here.  In fact, Welch’s Grape Company has a production plant in North East, and various festivals celebrate the grape and other crops.  The rolling terrain and proximity to Lake Erie make this an ideal grape growing climate.

In our sights for the afternoon were two of Pennsylvania’s oldest wineries, Penn Shore Vineyard and Presque Isle Wine Cellars.

Penn Shore Vineyard, open since 1970, is one of the first wineries established in Pennsylvania.  It’s a big, inviting place that offers tours to a few hundred people daily.  The tour takes you through the wine cellars, bottling operation, and finally the tasting room.

Penn Shore offers all sorts of approachable wines, and a few surprises as well.  There’s a full line of reds, whites, and sparkling wines.  We enjoyed the Bianca, a semi dry white, and the richly flavored Burgundy.  We also bought a bottle of Penn Shore Champagne, and wish we’d bought more.  Dry but not too dry, and perfectly carbonated, we thought it was far better than many imported champagnes.

Presque Isle Wine Cellars is another Pennsylvania veteran, having opened their doors in 1968.  Wine making is just part of the business here, as Presque Isle also is well known as a wine supply and grape juice operation.

When you visit, try the Falling Waters Sparkling Wine for a real taste of this area’s grapes.  It’s a sparkling white, with a pleasant fruity finish.  Not to be outdone is the Freeport Red, which practically explodes with rich berry flavor and aroma.  Finally, we recommend the Reflections of Lake Erie White, a blend of Riesling, Vidal, and Cayuga.

Wineries:  Day Two

Morning brought another gorgeous day, ideal for wine touring.  Three were in store for the day, but first we spent a few hours at the Tom Ridge Environmental Center at the gateway to Presque Isle.

This “green” environmental center, free to the public, is designed to educate visitors about Presque Isle and other important environmental issues.  The TREC is an interactive experience, with an orientation film introducing visitors to the natural wonder that is Presque Isle.

Plan for a few hours at the TREC.  There’s a great nature shop and gallery, cafe, educational exhibits, and much more.  We truly came to appreciate the efforts of various environmental agencies housed here, and learning more about beautiful Presque Isle.

After a quick bite at TREC’s Sunset Cafe, it was off to North East to visit the remaining three wineries on the Pennsylvania portion of the Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine Trail.

First stop was Heritage Wine Cellars, with a history as long as the rows of grape vines proliferating this area.  This family farm and winery is run by 6th generation Bostwick family members, whose ancestors purchased their 100 acre fruit farm in 1805.

Open as a winery since 1976, the vineyard is largely Concord grapes, most of which are used for juice.  Some are used in wine as well, so do plan a stop here to taste some of the freshest clean wines on this wine trail.

We felt the reds starred here.  In particular, we liked Solebury Red, a unique semi dry red with a light berry fruity finish.  Just as enjoyable was the Blush, an easy drinker perfect for picnics or happy hour.  If you’re in Erie and can’t get to the winery, you can buy Heritage wines at the Millcreek Mall, the largest shopping mall in the area.

Next up was Arrowhead Wine Cellars.  Owners Nick and Kathy Mobilia harvest most of the wine making grapes themselves, directly from their 250 acre North East farm.  This is truly a destination, with a large gift shop with all sorts of interesting items, and a fruit stand next door.  A rich Chardonnay, crisp Pinot Grigio, and a fresh and sweet Concord were among several we tasted.  Be sure to stop at the fruit stand – it’s ideal for a mid afternoon snack.

Last but certainly not least in this journey was Mazza Vineyards. Since 1973, the Mazza family has proudly produced some of the best Germanic style wines anywhere.  Upon arrival, you’ll be greeted inside the beautiful Mediterranean style main building, where you can opt for a tour or proceed to the tasting area or gift shop.

This evolving winery produces not only a full range of reds, whites, and fruit wines, but specialty sherrys and ports as well. We opted for the Riesling, upon a recommendation from a BrewErie waitress.  And it’s fantastic, with fruity overtones and pleasantly crisp finish.  The Port, aged in bourbon barrels, has delicious fruit flavors (we sensed plum and dark cherry).  We also took home a few bottles of Country White, a pleasant and mildly sweet white blend.

Author Jim Hofman travels the country and writes frequently for his website, Wine Trails USA.

After driving along winding, wine country roads, we arrived at Michel-Schlumberger which is located off the beaten path in Wine Creek Canyon. Led by winemaker Mike Brunson and general manager Judd Wallenbrock, our walk started near the top of Bradford Mountain. As we enjoyed a walk in the morning sun and took in the picturesque surroundings, Mike and Judd shared with us some of the winery’s history, vineyard practices, and philosophy of winemaking.

Founded in 1979 as Domaine Michel, Michel-Schlumberger came to be in 1993 when Jacques Schlumberger became majority partner and president. Michel-Schlumberger utilizes sustainable farming techniques and is in the process of pursuing an organic farming certification. In fact, all of the Dry Creek Valley is moving towards following organic principles. In keeping with these organic principles, Michel-Schlumberger has sheep that help with mowing around the vines and chickens that assist with controlling bugs in the vineyards. Under the direction of winemaker Mike Brunson, they produce hand-crafted small lot wines and specialize in Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Lucky for us, most of our walk was downhill, winding along Wine Creek from Bradford Mountain down the hillside to the valley vineyards near the winery. About three-quarters of the way through our walk, we stopped at a beautiful spot overlooking the vineyards to enjoy some barrel samples of Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. Then we continued down to the valley vineyards, past the chicken coop, and were led to a long table set for us on the lawn next to the winery for a family style lunch catered by Liza Hinman of Santi and paired with Michel-Schlumberger’s 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2005 Coteaux Sauvages. Fabulous food, good wines, the company of new friends, and a gorgeous wine country day made this a truly memorable experience.

If you are ever in the Sonoma County area, I highly encourage you to make an appointment to visit Michel-Schlumberger. They offer a wide variety of tours and tastings; all of which promise to be very memorable experiences. And if a vineyard walk like this appeals to you, you might want to consider one of the Sonoma Vineyard Walks offered by Zephyr Wine Adventures for your next vacation.

On previous visits to the Dry Creek Valley, I have also visited Pedroncelli and Seghesio and would recommend you add them to your must-visit list as well. Also, a couple other wineries whose wines we’ve tasted and would love to visit include Dry Creek Vineyard and Quivira. For a list of additional wineries in the area, visit Winegrowers of Dry Creek Valley.

If You Go:

If you are flying, San Francisco and Oakland are the closest major airports. There is also a small, regional airport in nearby Santa Rosa. If you are driving, Dry Creek Valley is located approximately 70 miles north of San Francisco Bay and about 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean in northern Sonoma County, California.

Lodging: For a contemporary luxury retreat, stay at the Duchamp Hotel in Healdsburg. For budget-conscious travelers, stay at the Best Western Dry Creek Inn in Healdsburg. And for a nostalgia trip back to the 1950s, stay at The Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. There are a number of other options in Healdsburg to consider as well.

Wineries and tasting rooms to visit:
Michel-Schlumberger, 4155 Wine Creek Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448, 707-433-7427, tours by appointment at 11am and 2pm daily, $15 tour/tasting fee. For directions, click here.
Pedroncelli Winery, 1220 Canyon Road, Geyserville, CA 95441, 707-857-3531, open daily 10am-4:30pm, No tasting fee. For directions, click here.
Seghesio Family Vineyards, 14730 Grove Street, Healdsburg, CA 95448, 707-433-3579, open daily 10am-5pm, $5 tasting fee (refundable with purchase). For directions, click here.
Dry Creek Vineyard, 3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448, 707-433-1000, open daily 10:30am-4:30pm, $5 or $10 tasting fee depending on which tasting you choose. For directions, click here.
Quivira Vineyards, 4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448, 800-292-8339, open daily 11am-5pm, $5 tasting fee (refundable with purchase). For directions, click here.

Other things to do in the area: Healdsburg boasts several museums, historic homes, and a wine library. For the outdoor enthusiast, enjoy one of Healdsburg’s parks, golf courses, or bike trails. There are many other things to do including shopping, art galleries, and spas.